There are so many lovely walks in the Apokoronas, in the foothills of the White Mountains in western Crete. They follow dry stream beds winding thru gorges, or amongst the orange groves. Everywhere in Crete is dotted with white chapels, sometimes on the most inaccessible locations, and they can form an interesting end point to a walk. Here is one which is visible from our gardens at Panokosmos.
Its a one hour walk on a mixture of good dirt tracks, concrete and tarmac lanes, which climbs thru shady vegetation up to a pretty little chapel in a beautiful setting with great views over the hills to the sea. It returns thru a mountain village along a sleepy back road.
The route follows a dirt track which winds up the foothills thru shady undergrowth, past a long disused football pitch – or was it a running track?,
and up towards the little white chapel which we can see from the edge of our gardens.
The views from the chapel grounds are panoramic and spectacular, as far as the sea.
You can see Panokosmos, perched on the top of the Xiliomoudou village hill!
It takes ten minutes or so to walk down from our house, or a couple of minutes in the car, you can park on the junction where the dirt track leaves the road.
The walk itself can take around one hour walking at a leisurely pace, but its worth spending some time up at the chapel. We often make up a packed lunch for our guests to enjoy in the shade of the plane trees in the grounds whilst taking in the views.
The chapel is in a beautiful setting. It was dedicated to Giorgos Matsamakis in 1909, this family are a central part of Ramni, the nearest village, and amongst other things, own the dairy which makes delightful sheepsmilk yoghurt and fine Graviera.
The inscription reads “Diligence”. Inside the fittings are simple but moving, with incense burner, candles and pictures of Mary and saints. The screen is a gift of Michalis Gelasakis of Tsakistra, the village on the next hill.
This is one of the stops on another walk – the “five villages” that we like to do.
On the way back we turn towards “Upper Ramni” and come out onto the road back into the village, which slopes back down to the starting point of the walk.
Then, if you’re walking, it’s a bit of a slog back up to Panokosmos, but there’s the consolation of two other churches to visit!
If you’d like to take it here is the route in pictures:
And here as a walking route on Google maps if you have a smartphone:
And if you want to be ideally situated to go on it, come stay at Panokosmos!